La Fantástica and the Palenqueras
Picture this,
It is a hot day of December in Colombia. The temperature was around 36 to 38 degrees, and the humidity was through the roof. I felt completely out of my fishbowl: tired, sweaty, and maybe a bit hungover from last night. But who cares? I’m at La Fantástica — or Cartagena, as most people know it — and that’s what matters.
But you might wonder why it’s called La Fantástica, and the answer is because it truly is. This walled city is one of the most enduring symbols of Colombia's colonial history, originally fortified to protect against pirate attacks during the 16th and 17th centuries.
In the process of defending itself, Cartagena became a city where beauty flourished. Picture two- and three-storey colonial terraces, grand churches, and peaceful plazas (though perhaps not quite so peaceful at night), all sitting atop a marvellous cobbled network of stones. Together they create the perfect place, the perfect view, and the perfect photo.
As you walk through Cartagena, you feel its personality. You see the effort its people have put into making it vibrant and welcoming. The architecture is stunning — and then you see them...
Las Palenqueras.
These women, dressed in white or in the colours of the Colombian flag, carry bowls of tropical fruit and wear their heritage with pride. Like the city itself, they are rich in history. Their name comes from San Basilio de Palenque, the first free African town in the Americas, founded by escaped enslaved people in the 17th century. The word palenquerefers to the wooden fences used to protect these communities. Today, palenqueras stand as cultural icons of resilience and Afro-Colombian identity.
So here is the place I was, back in 2018. Enjoying the city, capturing all I could, and wondering why it took me so long to visit. Maybe I was too busy looking to distant horizons, forgetting what I had just around the corner. Maybe it’s the kind of oversight we all fall into—chasing the distant and forgetting the wonders waiting quietly at home.
And today, seven years later, I still remember that day as if it were yesterday. I remember the people, my friends, the fiesta, and how beautiful the city is any day of the year — whether it’s day or night.
And if you’ve made it this far, then add Cartagena to your bucket list, because it’s worth it. And if you want to support more of these stories, you can follow me on Instagram @taxsarot.
Thanks for walking this memory with me. I hope it left you with a little warmth, a spark of curiosity, or perhaps a longing to see it for yourself one day.
